Ben's Pick: Don't Miss Italy's Great Undiscovered White
Ben Giliberti, CW Director of Wine Education
Delicate, fresh, vivacious, and primed for summer, Ribolla Gialla (pronounced ree BOW la GUY ah) is the flagship wine of Friuli, the home of Italy's most sublime whites. All but unknown outside its home country, to taste the 2023 Tenuta Luisa Ribolla Gialla is to open the door to the uniquely Friulian passion for wine. Sharing a language, history, and culture with neighboring Austria, Friuli is the place where Teutonic precision meets the irrepressible Italian spirit of brio.I've loved this wine for ages, but this is the first time I've ever written about it, mainly because there was never enough to go around. It's still not easy to find, but when you do, you'll stop wondering why the Friulians seem to smile so much. It achieves perfection only in a small enclave of the region (Isonzo), but despite its rarity, it's a steal for a wine of this quality: 2023 Tenuta Luisa Ribolla Gialla on sale for just $17.99 on case purchases of 12 bottles or more; $18.99 for 6-11; $19.99 for 1-5 (reg. $24.99).
Grown in Friuli since the early Middle Ages, the Ribolla Gialla grape had almost disappeared by the late 20th century. It was rescued by a few stalwart growers, who refused to accept the loss of its luminous, fruit-laden grace. For that, I am forever grateful.Friuli's specialty is crisp, richly fruited alpine whites made from indigenous (and often hard-to-pronounce) grapes, including Tocai Friulano (now called simply Friulano, to avoid confusion with Hungary's sweet Tokay), Malvasia Istriana, Picolit, and the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. Friuli does a fine job with all of these, but for me, it's no contest: Ribolla Gialla Rules!Tastes like: Vibrant and inviting, with a racy drive and a genuine sense of finesse, it wafts from the glass with enticing notes of melon, peach, yellow pear, and a soft almond edge. The fruit expands and gains momentum as it races across the mid-palate, building to a finish intertwined with stony minerality, spice, and a saline snap that begs for another sip (and in my case, occasionally more than one—purely in the name of research, of course).Serve with: Ideal for outdoor summer relaxation, and every bit as delightful indoors the rest of the year, Ribolla Gialla is one of those unfussy wines that goes from aperitif to entrée without raising a ruckus. It's a treat on its own before dinner, but make no mistake, this is a wine that loves good food of all kinds. It’s a natural partner for classic Italian fare, from grilled poultry to poached or simply prepared salmon. It also shines alongside summer vegetables, seafood skewers, and even Italian sausages sizzling on the Weber. This is a wine that doesn’t mind a little smoke or spice, and it keeps its cool in warm weather.
Here are the details:** The 2023 Tenuta Luisa Ribolla Gialla is made from 100% Ribolla Gialla. Grapes are hand-harvested into small baskets to prevent bruising and then undergo optical sorting to ensure that only the finest fruit makes the cut. After a gentle crushing on the skins, fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine rests on its lees for five months to build texture and complexity, followed by two months of bottle aging. There’s no oak—just pure, focused Ribolla Gialla.** The vineyards of Tenuta Luisa lie in the Friuli Isonzo DOC, a region named for the river that meanders through the eastern part of Friuli Venezia Giulia. The area stretches from the Collio hills and the stony Karst plateau all the way down to the Adriatic Sea. It is not a large zone, but the climate enjoys a lusty back and forth between two dueling winds—the frigid Bora from the north, and the warm, sea-scented Sirocco from the south. Here, they reach an entente cordiale; the grapes ripen slowly, with just enough tension to retain bright acidity and develop full aromatic complexity.The soils, a mix of clay and limestone pebbles, retain water while contributing key minerals that shape the wine’s structure and flavor. Tenuta Luisa farms vineyards on both types of soil, achieving the balance of texture, freshness, and tantalizing mineral edge that makes its Ribolla Gialla so delectable.
Tasting Note
2023 Tenuta Luisa Ribolla GiallaThe 2023 Tenuta Luisa Ribolla Gialla captures the uniquely Friulian passion for precision winemaking married to Italian brio. The nose is bright and inviting, with notes of yellow pear, cantaloupe, white peach, and a soft edge of crushed almond. On the palate, the fruit expands and gains momentum across the mid-palate, with a lively push of energy that builds toward a focused, mouthwatering finish. A streak of stony minerality runs through it, joined by spice and a saline snap that begs for another sip. I love the style; no oak, no blending, no excess. Just great wine, true to its terroir.–– Ben Giliberti, CW Director of Wine Education