BEN'S PICK: MY BRILLIANT HOLIDAY WHITE
Ben Giliberti, CW Director of Wine Education
 While Italy is justly proud of its myriad indigenous varietals, cooler regions like Umbria have quietly begun producing world-class Chardonnays that challenge the best of Burgundy and the Golden State at better prices. My pick for this week is a sterling example of this shift, delivering elegance, balance, and complexity at a fraction of the cost of its Burgundy and California compadres: 2022 Antinori Castello della Sala - Chardonnay Bramìto della Sala Umbria, $22.99 (regularly $26.99). Thanksgiving bonus! $21.99 on 6 bottles or more.
But that's not quite why Bramìto gets my highest recommendation for this year's holiday tables, from the Immortal T-Day Bird and beyond. As Italians often say, "La vita è bella"—Life is beautiful—a celebration of life's pleasures and the uniquely Italian appreciation for beauty and joy in everyday moments. Bramìto embodies that. To me, that is the essence of the holiday spirit for this year and, I hope, every year, for each of you.
Bramìto della Sala is an artfully scaled-down version of Antinori's Cervaro della Sala, described by critic James Suckling—with no visible deficit of enthusiasm—as "Truly the Montrachet of Italy." Perhaps so, James, but truth be told, I prefer Bramìto over the $79 Cervaro della Sala, thanks to its racier style and far more food-friendly nature. While both offer unique expressions of the Castello della Sala terroir, Bramìto delivers freshness, elegance, and immediate appeal at a more accessible price.
The 2022 Bramìto strikes a "just right" harmony between fruit, structure, acidity, and richness. Crafted with a blend of traditional and modern techniques, it showcases Antinori's ability to innovate while staying true to the estate's exceptional terroir. A subtle touch of oak aging adds layers of complexity and creaminess without overwhelming the vibrant fruit and mineral qualities, resulting in a wine that is fresh, textured, and highly satisfying. It bridges the gap between the subtlety of the Côte de Beaune and California's tropical, oak-driven style, allowing for a broader range of food pairings without overwhelming delicate flavors. It reminds us that outstanding Chardonnay doesn't require heavy manipulation; it requires the right terroir, expert craftsmanship, and a commitment to balance.
Serve With: This Chardonnay's bright acidity and creamy texture make it a perfect match for a wide variety of dishes. It pairs beautifully with seafood, such as seared scallops, grilled salmon, or shrimp risotto. The subtle oak influence complements roasted chicken, especially when paired with a rich, buttery sauce. If you're going vegan, consider a hearty mushroom risotto or roasted root vegetables for an equally indulgent pairing. And, as you plan your holiday menu, picture it alongside the Thanksgiving Bird, where its vibrant fruit and subtle complexity will beautifully balance savory flavors.
Here are the details:
** The 2022 Antinori Castello della Sala - Chardonnay Bramìto della Sala Umbria, made from 100% Chardonnay, demonstrates Antinori's dedication to precision winemaking. The grapes are hand harvested from estate vineyards surrounding the historic Castello della Sala. Upon arriving at the winery, they are destemmed and gently crushed; the must is chilled to 50°F for a brief maceration period of two to four hours to enhance the wine's aromatic profile.
Fermentation occurs in two stages: part of the wine is fermented in oak barrels, while the rest is fermented in stainless-steel vats at a controlled temperature of 61-64°F. This approach allows the wine to retain freshness and gain complexity simultaneously. Only the oak-fermented portion undergoes malolactic fermentation, which imparts a creamy texture to the wine. After fermentation, the wine is aged briefly before blending and bottling.
** Antinori's Castello della Sala estate, perched in the Umbrian hills, operates with the quiet assurance that only centuries of history can provide. Its medieval walls, though picturesque, are far from the estate's most valuable asset. What truly defines this vineyard is the land beneath—fossil-laden soils, rich in clay, a geological inheritance that doesn't just invite Chardonnay but practically insists on it.
Terroir plays its part, as it inevitably does. Situated between the Apennine mountains and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Castello della Sala enjoys a climate that blends the best of both worlds. Days are long, sunlit affairs, allowing the grapes to ripen with deliberate slowness, while cool nights provide the reprieve necessary to lock in acidity and freshness. Nature, in this instance, does most of the heavy lifting. Yet, one is reminded that while terroir is non-negotiable, it is human intervention—meticulously restrained—that makes the difference between a wine of potential and a wine that achieves its own kind of greatness.
At 660 feet above sea level, the vineyard's altitude offers another subtle advantage. Not so high as to evoke hardship, but high enough to provide the conditions for the Chardonnay to develop its signature complexity. And while some might romanticize the estate's history or the beauty of the location, one must remember that wine, like all fine things, ultimately boils down to a simple truth: the land either works in your favor, or it does not. In this case, it decidedly does. |
Purchased by the Antinori family in 1940, the Castello della Sala estate lies just outside the Umbrian town of Orvieto. While the region enjoyed a long history of winemaking, the Antinori family saw potential for something more. They recognized that Umbria's cool climate and unique terroir—rich in clay and fossil deposits—could produce exceptional Chardonnay with a distinctive Italian flair..png)
.png)
.png)
