BEN'S PICK: THE RISE AND RISE OF GREAT AFFORDABLE VIOGNIER $9.99 
Ben Giliberti, CW Director of Wine Education

For most of its history, the Viognier grape was synonymous with Condrieu, a small appellation of the northern Rhône Valley. Condrieu provided Viognier with everything it needed to become the exclusive preserve of the well-heeled elite: a rare exoticism of aroma and flavor, extremely high quality, severely limited production, and a ridiculously high price to boast about. The fact that it was also among the world's most captivating and satisfying white wines may well have escaped them.

It will not escape us, especially at this price: 2023 Bruno Andreu Viognier Pays d'Oc, just $9.99 on purchases of 12 bottles or more ($10.99 for 1-11 bottles; reg. $12.99). On quality alone, it has become my go-to house white; the fact that it is an incredible bargain is an extra-added attraction. Please note that quantities are limited.  
 

I hear you asking: if Viognier is as great as you say it is, why is everybody drinking Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc instead? That's a great question, and the answer will tell you all you need to know about why it's taken so long for affordable Viognier to get here and why I'm so thrilled to present it. 

Like much that fascinates, the Viognier story starts with an delectable contradiction: how is it that Viognier—a grape that craves sunshine and warmth—found its historic home in Condrieu, a relatively cool region by comparison?  

The secret lies in Condrieu's steep, terraced slopes. Offering south/southeast exposures, these slopes act like solar panels, capturing and concentrating sunlight throughout the day, while the granite soils retain heat, radiating it back to the vines as temperatures drop at night. This delicate balance of sun and cool nights creates a microclimate that allows Viognier to ripen fully, developing its hallmark floral and stone-fruit characteristics even in a setting where warmth is limited. It's a testament to the ingenuity of winemakers who long ago recognized that, in the right spot and with enough effort, even a notoriously finicky grape like Viognier could flourish. 

Unfortunately, the labor-intensive nature of growing Viognier in Condrieu made large-scale production impossible. The steep, terraced vineyards required everything to be done by hand, from planting to harvest, making it a far cry from the mechanized, high-yield vineyards that allowed affordable Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to dominate the global market.  

Viognier's moment as an affordable wine had to wait until it found a new home where more accessible terrain offered the opportunity to unlock its potential on a broader scale without sacrificing quality. 

On paper, the Languedoc appeared to provide the perfect proving ground for Viognier's renaissance. Its warm Mediterranean climate would give the grape the warmth it needs to develop its full range of flavors while cooling breezes from the sea and higher-altitude vineyards would moderate temperatures. Yet, early efforts failed miserably. The wines were too heavy, overly aromatic, too high in alcohol, and woefully deficient in the acidity to balance the Viognier's natural opulence. But finally, Bruno Andreu and his fellow Languedoc winemakers cracked the Viognier code. 

Explained Bruno, "Our 'Eureka' moment was when we realized that the terraces of Condrieu were providing a lot more than sunshine and warmth. They were precisely angled to provide an alternating balance of sun, shade, and cool nights." Since the Languedoc landscape is mostly flat, it looked like their hopes had hit the wall.  

What the vast plains of the Languedoc could not provide Bruno and his fellow vignerons supplied with ingenuity. Leaves were pruned to provide alternating shade to the ripening bunches at different times during the day; grapes were harvested early to retain acidity and freshness. In a move that probably cost everyone a lot of sleep, they harvest at night in the cool hours between midnight and 5 AM to ensure that the grapes arrive at the winery in top condition.  

The result is the 2023 Bruno Andreu Viognier, a wine that delivers Viognier's signature opulence in the racy style of Condrieu – at a fraction of the price. 

Serve with: Like Condrieu, this vibrant Viognier pairs beautifully with a range of dishes. Its aromatic complexity and full-bodied texture make it a natural match for seafood dishes like grilled shrimp or scallops, and its floral, peachy notes are a perfect foil for mildly spiced Thai or Indian cuisine. For a more casual pairing, try it with roast chicken or a vegetarian salad to highlight its fresh acidity and luscious stone fruit flavors. 

Here are the details: 

** The 2023 Les Prunelles is made from 100% Viognier. After short skin maceration (grape skins left in contact with the juice for color and flavor), the grapes are pressed and transferred to a cold tank for 24 hours of clarification (allows grape solids settle out of the juice). Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures, followed by aging on the lees for several weeks with regular batonnage (lees stirring), which adds a delicate, creamy texture to the wine. To preserve the natural fruit of the Viognier grape, oak was not employed.  

** The vineyards lie on clay-limestone soils, which provide ideal drainage and retain enough moisture to help the grapes ripen fully, even in the hot Languedoc sun. The warm days are tempered by cooling Mediterranean breezes, ensuring that the grapes maintain their acidity and freshness. As noted above, night harvesting preserves aromatic freshness and complexity.  

** 2023 Les Prunelles Viognier is a Calvert Woodley Direct Import™, purchased direct from the winery cellar in France, cutting out the middleman, with the savings passed directly on to you.  

Ben Giliberti served as wine columnist for The Washington Post for over two decades, beginning in the early 1980s. His articles on food, wine, and travel have appeared in Wine Spectator, Travel & Leisure, Cigar Aficionado, United Airlines Flyer, Food & Wine, Decanter, The LA Times, Newsday, Wine News, and other publications. A graduate of Yale University, his career in journalism began as a sports commentator for WYBC FM (Yale Broadcasting Company). 

Ben joined our team as Calvert Woodley’s Director of Wine Education back in 2010. Since then, he has accumulated a large audience who eagerly await the arrival of his weekly pick every Tuesday. He focuses on value, affordability, and quality. Each newsletter is complete with detailed tasting notes, food pairings, background on the vineyard, winemaking, and more!